How To Properly Layer Your Skincare Routine

Have you ever purchased new skincare products either from the store or a spa and then wondered where in your routine is that supposed to be put on? Yea, same! First of all, if you are buying from an esthetician and they do not give you instructions on how and when to use it, do not go back to them. That is a pet peeve of mine and not a way to be professional! It happens more than you think. So I am sure if you are reading this, you are either curious if you are applying your products correctly or hoping to learn how to. That is where I come in and happy to help!

The two most asked questions I get in the treatment room are “when do I use this?” and “should my morning routine be the same as my night routine?”. If this has been you, you are not alone and hopefully, by the end of this blog you will know what steps to follow. We will be discussing how different products should be layered, what is needed in your AM and PM routine, and the benefits of each step. So put a face mask on so you are multitasking by treating your skin while learning about it!

Layering Your Products.

It is so exciting unboxing your brand-new products and see how pretty they all look on your bathroom shelf. But when you do not know which part of your routine they belong in, it becomes overwhelming. Then it is either put on incorrectly, which wastes your money or ends up stuffed in the bottom of a drawer. Neither is going to be effective at giving you the results you want.

The easiest way to remember how products are applied is to think thinnest to thickest. The thinner the product, the smaller the molecule that is able to penetrate into our skin. It allows for the more active ingredients to work their magic while the humectants and occlusives lock in the moisture. If we applied moisturizer before serums, the serums would never be able to get absorbed, therefore making them useless.

So let us break down what these steps look like in your morning and nighttime routine. Keep in mind, this is an ideal outline but can be customizable based on preference, budget, and schedule. I feel that the best routine is the one you can be consistent and committed with.

Ideal Morning Routine – Protect.

Cleanse.

Raise your hand if you wash your face in the morning. As expected, not very many of you. Most morning routines for people include splashing their face with water and applying a moisturizer as they head off to start their day. LETS.STOP.THAT. I am sure you are not changing your pillowcase every day, and even if you are changing it each week as recommended, dead skin cells, sweat, bacteria, oils from your hair, and maybe even some drool are collecting on your pillowcase every night. I don’t know about you but that seems pretty gross to be on my face and then covered up with moisturizer the following morning. Hello, acne and fine lines.

Cleansing in the morning does not need to be as intense as in the evening but it still needs to be done. You can even have a gentle, inexpensive one if you want to save your pricier, actives filled, cleanser for the evening wash. And please, please, please, remember to wash your hands before cleansing your face!

Exfoliate.

This part is one of the customizable areas where you can choose morning or night based on preference and schedule. If you are using a manual exfoliant, typically it would be best in the morning to remove the oil produced overnight and smooth off the dead skin cells, since cell turnover happens at night. However, there are benefits for the evening as well so if you are more likely to exfoliate at night than in the evening, don’t sweat it.

The amount of exfoliating will vary based on skin type, sensitivity, active ingredients, and time of year. If using Glycolic Acid, you may be able to exfoliate 2x a week due to its more potency of it whereas a gentler AHA or PHA can be used more frequently. The same goes for reducing the amount of use in the drier months (Fall/Winter) than the humid months (Spring/Summer). If you overwork your skin, the first thing to go is the acids so I would take a break from exfoliating and then bring it back in once your skin is more recovered.

Hydrating Mist.

This is a great product to add in to help restore hydration, especially after exfoliating or if you have dry skin. Choose a spray that has Glycerin, any hydrating flower mist, Hyaluronic Acid, or high-quality rosewater. A few spritzes are all you need and will also help your products absorb better when applied right after. Throughout the day, if you are feeling tight or have even been traveling, this mist will come in clutch to boost the moisture of your skin.

Serum(s).

I often get asked about the importance of serums, if they are actually needed, and if they are just another moisturizer. To clarify, they are your skin correctors so yes they are needed if you have changes in your skin you would like to see. Uses for serums could be for brightening, firming, anti-aging, hydrating, etc., with common examples being Vitamin C, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, Retinol, or Peptides.

Prices for serums will vary, with your drugstore versions being between $10-$40 and your high-end professional brands being between $50-$150+. Just do your research because more expensive does not equate to better, but those containing a higher concentration of active ingredients or a more advanced delivery system will increase the cost.

Moisturizer.

The purpose of this product is to hydrate and provide a protective barrier for the other applied products. Choosing a moisturizer will depend on your skin type – if you are oily then pick an oil-free moisturizer, if you are dry then you will want a cream-based one full of oils. This does not need to be overly expensive but do your due diligence with ingredients and let’s avoid the cheapies.

SPF.

Nothing, I repeat, NOTHING will help you have great skin if you do not protect it on a daily basis with SPF. You will be wasting your money on corrective products and/or treatments while waiting to see changes that probably will not come. UVA rays can penetrate through glass so all the time driving, being indoors near a window, or outside on a cloudy day, they are still damaging our skin. And for those that say “I have SPF in my moisturizer”, it is not nearly enough of what is needed to offer protection. You need about a quarter size of SPF 30+ on your face, and another quarter size on your neck, with reapplication every 2-3 hours. I definitely saw some eyes get big reading this section!

Ideal Evening Routine – Treat & Repair.

Cleanse, Cleanse.

Yes, you read that twice because two cleanses are what you need to be doing at night. This is especially for my make-up & sunscreen wearers (which is everyone now, right!). The first cleanse should be done with a cleansing oil or balm that will act as a magnet to remove makeup, sunscreen, environmental pollution, free radicals, dirt, debris, etc. Pretty much, the job of this initial cleanse is to clean the outer surface of your face so you can actually clean your skin with the next one.

Now your skin is prepared for your second cleanse, and your cleanser should be specific for your skin type. This step allows for your pores to be properly flushed out and decongested to help eliminate the pop-up of breakouts typically caused by inaccurate cleansing.

Mask (if applicable).

I am a mask lover and look forward to a good mask. If you are the same, this is the time to put it on. Find a mask suitable for your skin concern and type. Did you know you could wear two different masks for different uses simultaneously? Maybe you need a clay-based one for your oily T-zone but also use a hydrating Hyaluronic Acid mask on the other areas of your face. I like to multitask during this part of my routine and utilize the 10-20 minutes that I am leaving by doing the laundry, tidying up, picking out my outfit for the next day, etc. Even if you get sidetracked and leave it on a tad longer than directed, your skin will be fine! Just remember to wash your hands again before removing them and continuing your routine.

Vitamin A (if applicable).

Anyone 25 years old and older can benefit from Vitamin A (prescribed or not). If you are new to using Vitamin A, start with a low concentration (0.25% or 0.3%) and apply every 3-4 days until you can increase it. Because Vitamin A makes your skin more photosensitive, you are only applying this at night. If flakiness or extreme dryness occurs, cut back on the use.

Eye Cream.

Yes, even if this product is thicker, it will go before your serum/moisturizer. Tricky, I know, but the reason is this. Firstly, the eye area is the most delicate so you want to protect it from the harsher ingredients in the other products. Also, eye creams are designed to penetrate deeper into the skin so you do not want a barrier for it to not be able to do its job.

Serum(s).

Just like your AM routine, you may have evening serums that can be applied at this time. Examples could be anti-aging, hydrating, brightening, etc. Vitamin C serums are better for the AM due to their purpose to protect your skin from environmental damage and sun exposure. However, using a serum for hydration with Hyaluronic Acid would be best applied twice a day. Serums can be layered so using 2-3 at a time is perfectly OK.

Moisturizer.

Lastly, your moisturizer is applied. For those with really dry skin, you may benefit from a heavier moisturizer for the evening to help keep you hydrated overnight and keep your other products locked in. If you are oilier, you may omit a moisturizer if the serums are enough. Remember that you are tailoring your routine to your skin type so it is different for everyone, and yours may even need to change up during the changing of the seasons.

Other Helpful Tips.

• Sleep with a silk pillowcase so that your products are not absorbed into the cotton pillowcases.
• If you sleep with an eye mask, wash it frequently or bacteria will build up and can cause infections and irritations.
• Otherwise, you are wasting your hard-earned money by giving your pillow your products.
• Use a new towel each night or at least weekly.
• Apply products on a damp face so they are absorbed better.
• Do not use makeup remover wipes. They can create microtears in your skin which will cause more treatments needed.
• Micellar water can be used as a first cleanse but will not be helpful with the removal of heavy makeup or SPF.